Pilgrimage to Israel led by Desi Maxwell
Pilgrimage to Israel led by Desi Maxwell
Introduction
This was a pilgrimage with a difference, and we visited very few of the usual pilgrim/tourist sites. Our leader, Desi Maxwell’s aim was to use first Galilee and then Jerusalem as classrooms in which the words of Scripture, and especially the words and actions of Jesus, would come alive in such a way that, like the disciples on the Emmaus Road, “our hearts would burn within us.” He wanted us to learn to read the Scriptures in stereo – to always catch the link between the Old Testament and the New Testament – and he gave us “trifocal study specs” to understand especially the relationship between the People, the Land and the Book.
Pilgrimage to Israel led by Desi Maxwell
He opened up to us the Hebrew way of thinking by explaining the theological, political and social context in which Jesus lived, so we could see Him as a real, 1st Century Jewish rabbi as well as the Son of God. Our studies were based mostly around St. Mark’s Gospel, so there were no references to the events surrounding Jesus’ birth, and they started in Galilee, which is where we spent our first 5 days.
Pilgrimage to Israel led by Desi MaxwellIn and around Galilee
We stayed in a lovely kibbutz hotel, Nof Ginosar, on the shore of the lake, and our early visits were all around that area, where 75% of Jesus’ teaching and miracles took place. We had a trip on a boat across the lake and a sailor demonstrated how to use a cast net in 1st Century fashion.
We visited Capernaum, where Jesus spent much time teaching, and where various of His miracles took place.
Pilgrimage to Israel led by Desi Maxwell
He also met strong opposition from the Pharisees there. We saw the 4th Century Synagogue built over the one Jesus would have visited, and we saw the foundations of Peter’s house, which was later to become the first house church!
We also visited the Church of Peter’s Primacy and listened to the story of Jesus’ breakfast with the disciples after His resurrection and the moving reconciliation with Peter, after his denial.
Pilgrimage to Israel led by Desi Maxwell
Other places we visited around the lake were the ruins of Chorazim village and the Mount of Beatitudes, where there is a Catholic chapel and a guest house, beautifully situated in a wonderful garden, overlooking the lake. We also drove right up to the top of a high hill, Arbel, with a viewing point over the whole Galilee area. It was in the caves of this mount that Jews who opposed Rome’s imposition of King Herod over Israel, committed suicide or fought to their deaths. There was a wonderfully constructed dry stone wall there, and we considered how God is building each one of us into a temple of living stones, a dwelling for His Holy Spirit.
Interesting Visits
One of the most interesting stops we made was to an Orthodox Jewish community, where we met a very remarkable Jewess called Federa Shapiro.
She told us her story from being a very successful Canadian academic with a beautiful home to becoming a member of this community, living
a very simple life with her family of five children in the Galilee area. She was partly moved to change her lifestyle through meeting and being encouraged to make aliyah by Canadian Christians.
We visited the community’s synagogue and workshop, and saw how they make olive oil and sell their own honey.
Another fascinating visit was to MEGAvoice, a Christian factory in Tiberias, producing audio files of biblical material on tiny solar-powered handsets, in several thousand languages. It was thrilling to see technical advances being used to bless non-reading people all over the world.
Nazareth Village.
One day we visited the Authentic Nazareth Village, a reconstruction on an ancient 1st Century site by the Y.M.C.A. It’s a remarkable place with a terraced, walled vineyard, olive trees, a watchtower, animal corrals, stone presses for oil and wine and a carpentry/stonemasonry workshop. There were people working and tending the animals in 1st Century clothes, and cooking food in 1st Century fashion.
Desi read the parable of the Tenants of the Vineyard who refused to give the owner his rights and finally killed his son. It came so alive, looking round the vineyard!
We also received many new and illuminating insights into the story of the Prodigal Son.
Sepphoris
That afternoon we visited Sepphoris, an important city built by Herod the Great, with its Roman roads and a large theatre of 4500 seats, for entertaining the garrison soldiers. There is also a wonderful example of a 3rd Century Roman villa. It’s very likely Joseph and Jesus worked here as carpenters and stonemasons – a considerable walk from Nazareth.
Desi pointed out the tensions there were between city and village life and how Jesus spent very little time in the cities of His day, and mostly preached in synagogues, villages, streets and countryside, to ordinary people.
Meeting a Messianic Pastor
In the evening we had a very interesting visit from Claude Ezagouri,
pastor of the Morning Star Congregation in Tiberias. He described how he and his wife, as religious Jews, made aliyah in 1975 from French North Africa. After intense spiritual searching, Claude became a believer in Yeshua, and through his prayers, his wife and family followed him. He told us something of his congregation and his belief that many practising Jews are very close to the truth. He believes this is the time to “prepare the nets” to draw many into the Kingdom.
The Golan
On our last day in Galilee, we travelled up to the Golan Heights, very close to the Syrian and Lebanese borders. We walked through the beautiful Tel Dan Reserve, admiring the Dan Spring, the largest source of the River Jordan. We also visited the site where King Jeroboam of Northern Israel set up an altar with a golden calf as he did in Bethel (further south), trying to put God at the borders of a political state, reducing Him to a political, national deity, rather than the God of the cosmos. This was a meaningful message for a group from Northern Ireland!
We then travelled on to biblical Caesarea Philippi, and saw the site of the demonic temple of Pan. In this place of pagan worship (the Gates of Hell) Jesus asked the disciples who He was. In response to Peter’s Spirit-inspired answer, Jesus assured Him that nothing could hold back God’s plan, not even the gates of hell itself.
We next went up very near to the Syrian border and saw the barracks and trenches used up to the 1973 war. A Dutch artist has produced clever sculptures from battered tanks, etc.
Overlooking Syria, with Damascus only 60 kms. away, was a sober reminder of the reality of Israel’s dangerous situation.
Our final stop was at Katzrin Talmudic Village, where the remains of an ancient synagogue, destroyed by an 8th Century earthquake, were found after the ‘67 War. A fascinating two-storey family home has been reconstructed, giving a vivid picture of how the Talmudic scholars lived. Desi explained how the Mishna and the Talmud came to be written down, as rabbis interpreted the biblical text and oral traditions.
Beth Shean
Our time in Galilee over, we travelled south, stopping first at Beth Shean, where we learned about the tensions experienced by Jewish people living in a Hellenistic pagan city, with all its attractions and temptations. Some young aspiring Jewish athletes even removed traces of their circumcision.
We moved on towards the Dead Sea and stopped at Qumran, to learn about the caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1947.
We then went on to visit a very interesting place where the traditional blue Techelet dye is produced for the tassels of Jewish prayer shawls, from a particular species of snails.
Jerusalem
As evening approached, we drove up to Jerusalem, a very moving climax for the day for all of us, and we stopped on Abraham’s Ridge to get a panoramic view of the city. The temperature dropped dramatically and we were glad to arrive at the Prima Royal hotel as dusk was falling!
During our five days in Jerusalem, we visited the Jebusite City of David, the Siloam Pool and the Davidson Park with its access to the original southern steps which led up to the Temple in Jesus’ day. We also visited the Pool of Bethsaida and the Church of St. Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary.
We all enjoyed the tours of the exotic, colourful and noisy markets, both Arab and Jewish, through narrow, bustling streets, and we were fascinated by the Israel Museum Model of Jerusalem in the 2nd Temple period and by the Shrine of the Book, with its complete Isaiah scroll in the centre.
Gethsemane
I think one of the highlights for most of us, though, was the time we spent in the Garden of Gethsemane, where the ancient olive trees reminded us of how Jesus was pressed in agony to death. We were reminded, too, that at the Last Supper, Jesus was preparing Himself for His ultimate Exodus, as with His disciples He sang Psalms 113-118 and Psalm 114 spoke of the first Exodus from Egypt. Through Jesus’ obedience to death, He undid the curse of our disobedience, cancelling the slavery which resulted. It was strange, but fitting, to sit quietly in that ancient garden, with much noise and bustle all around us, and to experience “sacred moments” in suspended time.
The Garden Tomb
Perhaps for all of us, however, the climax of the whole pilgrimage was the simple service of Holy Communion in the beautiful Garden Tomb site.
Desi spoke about the Forgotten Father, the One who raised Jesus from the dead as the Firstfruits, guaranteeing the harvest that is to come. Our future is tied up with Jesus’ resurrection. We are in the waiting room, part of a loving bride, and we are being given a meal to refresh and encourage us on our journey. It’s a meal whose origin started at Passover and will end in the Heavenly Banquet. What a hope we have been given to share with all peoples!
Our Final Tour Day
Our last tour day started with a visit to the Western Wall (the Temple Mount being out of bounds because of some conflict which had arisen). It was good to approach the Wall and to sit quietly, praying.
We then visited a shop, Shorashim, in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City,
where two brothers have opened a business selling all kinds of Judaica, based entirely on the Bible, to remind everybody why they are in Jerusalem. We were given a very interesting talk by one of the brothers, a God-fearing, God-loving Jew, who showed much insight into Western Christian thinking and who believes a curtain has fallen between Jews and Christians. He said he believed we ourselves were there in Israel because God wanted to meet us on His land. He is a God who is bigger than doctrine, and in Jerusalem we were near the footstool of His throne.
From there we visited the Temple Institute, where Orthodox Jews are preparing everything for the Third Temple – the altars, the laver, the menorah, the different vessels, the priests’ garments and the musical instruments, etc. It was mind-blowing and raised many questions! Will God really permit a Third Temple to be established?
Our last visit of the day was to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial. This is surely one of the world’s most sobering and challenging experiences. How was it possible that ‘civilized’, ‘educated’ Europe really descended to such barbarity? But – given the same circumstances – would I have acted any differently? The Children’s Memorial is particularly poignant. Amidst all the horror and darkness, however, there were flashes of life and colour – teachers, artists and musicians who used their talents to brighten life in the ghettos; and many courageous people who risked their own lives to shelter and help Jews to escape.
After supper, Seth Ben-Haim, a young Messianic pastor, came to talk to us. He had just received notice of his forthcoming obligatory Reserve Army Duty – a sad reminder of the dangerous days Jews are living in. He described what a struggle it is for Jews in the Diaspora to leave their comfort zones and make aliyah to Israel. At present he is involved in developing the curriculum for a Centre of Messianic Theology, partnering with other ministries.
One of the things we all appreciated was the opportunity to meet with people who live and work in Israel and it was very encouraging listening to Seth. We all appreciated, too, Inge’s seemingly unending fund of knowledge and helpfulness, and Meir’s expert driving and very pleasant personality.
Our final free day was much appreciated by everyone, perhaps especially the Senior Citizens amongst us! It was good to have time to pause, to reflect and to do some last-minute shopping!
In conclusion
This has been a very special pilgrimage and it’s been difficult to give a flavour of all its riches. We’ve been given many insights from both the Old and New Testament, and truly Jesus walked with us and on many occasions caused our hearts to burn within us. Thank you so much to all those involved its planning and execution!
